Informations générales
ECTSECTS
1.5
Goal(s)
Students will become familiar with nearshore dynamics:
- sea level analysis
- understand wave generation
- master wave propagation, refraction, diffraction and reflection
- main coastal morphological features
- analysis of long term impact of coastal structures
- design coastal protection against erosion
Content(s)
1. FREE SURFACE WAVE MODELLING: linear wave theory, long waves. Energetic properties of waves. Refraction by bottom bathymetry, statistical properties of offshore natural waves, tides, trends in sea levels.
2. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT BY WAVES:
physical properties of sediments, cohesive and non-cohesive sediments, longshore and cross-shore morphology of coasts, natural morphological systems and their evolutions, coastal protection works, long term dynamics and stability of estuaries and tidal inlets
Prerequisites :
Fluid mechanics and hydraulics
Test
Exam final de 2h
Calendar
S1
Additional Information
24 h (18 h CM + 4 h BE + 2 h DS)
Bibliography
Y. GODA - 'Random seas and design of maritime structures' World Scientific
R. DEAN & R. DALRYMPLE - 'Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists ' World Scientific
French State controlled diploma conferring a Master's degree
